Daniel Ndungu | Beyond the map

Mention Kenya in a travel conversation almost anywhere in the world and the discussion quickly turns to wildlife.  The association is understandable. Few countries have done more to define the modern safari experience. But reducing Kenya to wildlife alone overlooks an extraordinary range of experiences that exist beyond its national parks. From Swahili coastal towns and volcanic landscapes to mountain trails, living cultures, and urban creativity, Kenya offers more than the image that has come to dominate its international reputation. Some of Kenya's most memorable experiences happen far away from the savannah. They happen along a coastline where centuries of trade shaped a culture unlike any other in East Africa. They happen on mountain trails where the landscape changes with every few hundred metres of elevation. They happen inside ancient forests that quietly supply rivers flowing across the country, and in archaeological sites that tell stories reaching back millions of ye...

Kenya has no shortage of places where travel and conservation go hand in hand. From the open savannas of the Maasai Mara to the coral reefs of Watamu and the historic streets of Lamu, different parts of the country offer their own approach to responsible tourism. Alongside the scenery and wildlife, you’ll find eco-conscious lodges, marine conservation projects and community-led initiatives working to protect the environment while supporting the people who call these places home. 1. Maasai Mara: Conserving Wildlife and Culture The Maasai Mara is one of Kenya’s best-known wildlife destinations, famous for its vast grasslands, abundant wildlife and the annual Great Migration. But there is more to responsible tourism here than watching animals from a safari vehicle. A number of camps and lodges work with local Maasai communities through conservation, employment and community projects, helping connect tourism with the protection of the land and the livelihoods and cultural heritage of the p...

I realized that there is another side of safari that does not get nearly as much attention. The insects. It sounds like a small thing, but when you are actually spending time outdoors in the bush, insects are part of your surroundings whether you pay attention to them or not. They are in the grass, around the trees, near water and around camps. Some you will never notice. Others will make sure you notice them. And honestly, I found that part of safari quite interesting. When people talk about going on safari, the conversation usually revolves around lions, elephants, giraffes, the Big Five, beautiful landscapes and maybe what to pack. Nobody really wants to make insects the highlight of the trip. But they are there. And if you are going to spend time walking through grass, sitting outside your tent, travelling through wildlife areas or getting out of a safari vehicle, it makes sense to know what you might actually encounter. Tsetse flies caught my attention Tsetse flies were probably o...